![]() If wheigth of the head is increased, the screw is turned down to keep the equilibrium. I included a screw in the middle of the torque tube for relief of the pressure to the drivers.The idea is that the machine can record silent without links to the drive and then the links are connected, so the dirves dont suffer torsion. Is simpler for DIY, to use flexible torque tube, less channel separation, but some experimenters had impresive results. ![]() Resonance of all this elements are out of the reach of the feedback correction,if used, so they have to be designed very carefully. Note the tension wire at the rear of the torque tube. If the target is to mimic Wextrex÷Neumann torque tube there should be no elasticity: I bonded aluminium to wood (mapple, the same I use for guitar necks,with epoxi.The elastic part is the wood. But i found a Rek o Kut at reasonable price and abandoned this project, till I get more experience in recording with a proper machine It didn-t sound too bad,Lack of some treble, theres a video somewhere.It was some time ago. Is it rigidly attached to the wood, or it free to somewhat turn back in forth when the tweeters are active? I have a question about the connection between the aluminum and the wood. The V spring found at the end of the torque tube in westrex and neumanns is important to achieve channel separation, and the tube is rigid (and hollow) but an elastic one is convenient only for ease of DIY construction. The screw and the "stylus"(actually a long bar) in photo are obviously too long and heavy, I use them only to make easier to adjust geometry, when ready, I substituted them with ligther and smaller ones. Cut a big block around the screw and then file away all the aluminium you dont need.This is how I made mine: ![]() The piece that holds the disc usually is the best choice.Sit down with a vice, a handsaw, a drill,a good set of files and a can of beer. If you open an old hard disc drive you will find tiny screws in aluminium blocks. Is it similar to the torque and mount you have on the head you're working on? You wouldn't happen to have an up close and personal picture of a Neumann head would you? I've been trying to find something and have been striking out. Don't use screws from the fastener isle at your local hardware store. I highly suggest getting on and finding screws that are light and small and elegant. And, you would significantly reduce the moving mass. That way, you can attach a small, short, light torque tube to the mount. The mounting should protrude out from the cutterhead frame. I think you could make a similar tube and a mounting for it. So, using the torque tube clone of a Neumann wouldn't work for you. I'm finding I need to add weight to mine.įYI, your design is probably 1.5 times the size of a neumann or more. My guess is that your frame could also use some mass. Opcode66 wrote:You need to reduce the size and weight of the torque tube.
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